What is Sustainable Fashion?

Sustainability in Fashion

Throughout our research this year for Rogue Basics’ articles, we discovered a common theme: environmentally friendly fashion.

Influencers across the globe proudly shared that the majority of their 2024 Fashion Week looks are sourced from thrift stores or the depths of their closets. Likewise, industry powerhouses, such as Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood, have made sustainable clothing a priority with every runway debut.

The last time sustainability was this “trendy” was the early 2010s. During this era, many brands made the very public announcement that they would be changing their business models to solidify sustainability as a top priority.

These brands, like H&M and Zara, still proudly flaunt their environmentally friendly clothing to this day. However, further research revealed that these two “well known brands’ supposedly sustainable collections… are in the greenwash danger zone…”, according to Greenpeace. H&M and Zara are far from the worst of it, though.

After learning this, I couldn’t help but wonder- if brands can move on from the “trend” of sustainability as quickly as consumers- why is sustainable fashion important then? Does it really make a difference either way?

Environmentally Conscious Clothing: The Dangers of Fast Fashion

Sustainable fashion and ethical clothing impact various aspects of our lives. Arguably, the most well known aspect it impacts is climate change. The United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion even conducted a study on it. The results revealed that “the fashion industry is responsible for as much as 8% of global greenhouse-gas emissions”.

This overconsumption began “between 2000 and 2014, [when] clothing production doubled and consumers began buying 60% more clothes…”, according to National Geographic. A surprising statistic that turns alarming after a study by Feeding America revealed that “one in three… families found it difficult to afford basic household necessities…” during that same time period.

Currently, the cost of living crisis is severely affecting 40% of Americans, according to Statista. Yet, as of 2024, The Wall Street Journal reports, “the average garment is worn only 10 times before being discarded, often ending up in the trash”. 

How Sustainability Affects Consumers

The lack of sustainable fashion negatively affects the everyday consumer as well.

Renewcell, a Swedish startup, “launched a new material made from recycled textiles in late 2022,” according to The Wall Street Journal. Thanks to their chemical process, the new material is more durable than the mechanically recycled fibers commonly used within the industry. This new material is made by breaking “old textiles down to the level of individual molecules from which strong, new fibers are made. These can be recycled indefinitely via the same process.”

With Renewcell offering a material proven to be more beneficial to consumers, as well as the environment, what brand wouldn’t jump at the opportunity? Especially if they’ve still yet to fulfill decade-long passionate promises of sustainability.

Well, unfortunately, “while some big retailers, including [H&M, Zara, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger], were enthusiastic backers,” The Wall Street Journal reports, “not enough brands committed to buying its material.” As a result, Renewcell filed for bankruptcy last month- just 2 short years after launching. Tricia Carey, Renewcell’s chief commercial officer tells The Wall Street Journal, “[they] hit a brick wall in talks with other big brands… [that expressed] excitement and [agreed] to pilot projects, only to balk at placing commercial-scale orders.”

Fast Fashion vs Secondhand

How can sustainability be prioritized when there are no affordable options, though? An argument often made when the time comes to buy new clothing. Unfortunately, fast fashion is typically far cheaper, and not everyone has the privilege to choose where they shop. Therefore, we must also view sustainability from a class and accessibility perspective.

Sustainability shaming should not include those who cannot afford or have the means to access sustainable products. No matter a person’s economic class, though, there are ways that everyone can practice sustainability.

Sustainable fashion doesn’t just mean buying from approved brands. The most sustainable fashion choice is actually not buying new at all. Enter secondhand shopping! Thrifting is a great way to ensure you avoid directly supporting harmful brands. It’s also a great way to try fast fashion trends that were once overpriced; though, that’s not to say secondhand shopping should be used as a fast fashion alternative!

Ethical Clothing and Sustainable Garments

Sustainability, climate change, and economics are heavy topics. None of which the everyday consumer feels they have much control over. The government is in charge of the country’s economic wellbeing, and corporations have a much bigger impact on the environment than one polyester shirt does.

While all of that is true, I still fear we do not realize our power as everyday consumers. The everyday consumer is actually what the majority of businesses rely on. The working class, the average person, the everyday consumer- whatever mediocre title is bestowed upon us does not negate the fact that we are mighty and the voice of the majority. Our voices matter! And by voices, I mean money.

90% of the time a brand does not care if their public perception is bad so long as it doesn’t effect their revenue. Cheaper is always better for business, and the cheapest option a brand can get away with is typically the one they’ll choose. Yet all this money saved rarely results in quality products for consumers or acceptable working conditions for employees.

Believe in your power as a consumer! Consumers can force a company into change, if only we persist. If we accept appealing promises and projected plans for years down the line, there will never be further progress. If we accept the bare minimum, we will only ever receive the bare minimum. A brand’s goal is only to keep a consumer satisfied- not happy.

It’s time we start asking questions and demanding action. Don’t wait for a brand to confirm that a boycott is working- they never will. When shopping new, support these ethical brands instead- but most importantly, shop secondhand! 

FAQ